The 2000 Lealtanza Reserva is slightly darker in color than the 2001 and spent 18 months in French oak. There is more damp earth, spice, vanilla, tobacco smoke and cherry in the nose as well as more layering of fruit on the palate. It is a medium-bodied, elegant Rioja for drinking over the next 6-8 years. Importer: F.L. Navarro, Quality Wines of Spain, New York, NY; tel. (212) 842-8181

Hard leather and smoke aromas are the opening salvo, and there’s plenty of warm earth and cedar below deck. The palate is herbal and peppery, with a touch of burnt grass and green pepper sparring with plum and berry. Finishes a bit hot but ultimately it’s a solid, old-school Rioja. ——M.S.(11/1/2006)—— 85