From Chanson’s substantial portion of this famous vineyard comes a 2005 Beaune Clos des Mouches redolent of fresh blackberries, cinnamon, cedar and smoked meat. Firm and substantial on the palate, this finishes with concentrated tart fruit skin, solid meatiness of both flavor and texture, and faintly gum-numbing tannins. As with most of the Chanson 2005s I tasted ( a rather rough and dry-finishing Clos Vougeot excepted) this seems to have enough vivacity and intensity of fruit to ride out the tannins over a few years. Also recommended: 2005 Beaune Teurons (85). Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900

Following an unfortunate Chanson white wine style, this wine is totally dominated by new, high toast wood. It shows freshness, but the acidity comes from the wood, leaving the structured fruit way behind.——R.V.(5/1/2009)—— 85