Jean-Marc Brocard Bourgogne Jurassique

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1864

The 2007 Bourgogne Jurassique – grown on a combination of relatively clay-rich Portlandian and Kimmeridgian soils around Prehy – is this year by far the most ingratiating of what Brocard calls his “trio geologique” bottlings. Bright lime, red currant, and grapefruit laced with salt, chalk, and iodine make for a juicy, invigorating and lip-smacking cuvee whose silkiness of texture helps ameliorate the tendency toward sharpness and severity that were evidence in the vintage’s “Portlandien” bottling in this series. (The lemon and chicken stock-like “Kimmeridgien,” by contrast, was satisfyingly lees-enriched, but a bit awkwardly milky.) This will probably be best enjoyed over the next 18-24 months. Enologist Nadine Gublin (also of Domaine Jacques Prieur) is now heading the team here, although I can’t claim that any change in style was noticeable to me after only one vintage, a vintage that certainly inherently contributed to the less than forthcoming nature of many of these wines, as well as to greater irregularity in quality than those of 2006. I found myself less satisfied with this year’s grand cru bottlings as a group – after being puzzled by how several of the 2006s showed at a comparable stage, too – than I was with those of ostensibly lesser pedigree. A majority of the acreage controlled by Brocard is now being farmed biodynamically, and Julien Brocard suggests he may soon set some sort of record for surface area under such a regimen.Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400