The 2004 Riesling Smaragd Wachstum Bodenstein, from young, severely cropped vines in the nose bleed section of the Vorderseiber vineyard, plays in the same exalted league as the Achleiten. This end-November harvested beauty from an unusually cool Wachau microclimate was slow to ferment and stayed on its nourishing fine lees through the spring. Honey and distilled herb aromas soar from the glass. On the palate, the wine is rich yet lively, middle weight but caressingly silky. The super-concentration of citrus, herbs, honey and stones here comes without severity or austerity and the full-throttle finish just gushes fruit. Adversity of terroir builds character and keeps the berries tiny. You can taste both the tiny-berry concentration and the full panoply of phenolic complexity that comes from long hang time and wide day-night temperature swings. Indications over its first few years are that Bodenstein’s “Wachstum Bodenstein” Riesling will age at least as well as his bottlings from Achleiten and Klaus, so I wouldn’t hesitate to plan on following this over a 5-7 year period. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Racy, dry and lean, with mineral, lime and green apple notes giving this a rather hard mouthfeel. Tart green apple and citrus flavors finish crisp and refreshing, but this wine needs time (4-5 years?) to loosen up.——J.C.(8/1/2006)—— 89