This is like a well-fed youngster. It’s purple and offers mineral, lavender and peppery black-fruit aromas. But things go a bit south on the palate. The fruit is supercharged by piercing acidity. And there’s also a jolting bolt of sugar on the back palate. Ripe, modern but clumsy, without the balance and harmony to score better. ——M.S.(1/1/2004)—— 82