Ludwig Neumayer Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) Der Wein Vom Stein

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The 2007 Weissburgunder Der Wein Vom Stein came from largely healthy Rotenbart fruit harvested mid-October, although Neumayer says the old vines in the Zwirch succumbed to some dry botrytis. The upshot is that even though it is the highest alcohol wine in this year’s collection, it harbors a full percentage and a half less than the 15% alcohol 2006 (which still did not go dry). Fresh apple, toasted hazelnut, and citrus zest on the nose lead to a palate alluringly dominated by orange- and hazelnut cream, yet shot through with luscious primary melon and citrus juiciness and leading to a lithe, lively finish. The faintly herbal, bitter, Sauvignon-cast that this shares with so many wines of the vintage is arguably a bit un-Pinot-like, and one wonders whether the wine will seem riper as it evolves in bottle over the next several years. That it will prove versatile at table in its varietal-typical marriage of creaminess and refreshment is certain.On account of the hot, dry July, Neumayer says he only did one spraying against mildew and almost no manicuring of the foliage. He picked well into October, since he did not find he was risking such high potential alcohol as his 2006s had reached already in the early days of that month. These wines have what he calls the “cracking” of acidity that invigorates and refreshes. (Note that because of a change in importers at the beginning of this year, prices on these wines were not yet available to me, and the wines themselves will only begin arriving later in the year. Readers should consult my reviews of the 2006s in issue 177 for a ballpark idea of eventual retail prices.) The wines of this years’ Riesling collection chez Neumayer were all very slow to ferment and ended up completely dry at the upper twelve’s in alcohol.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com