Ludwig Neumayer Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) Der Wein Vom Stein

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Neumayer's 2006 Weissburgunder Der Wein Vom Stein looks like a freak on paper - and perhaps it is, but, if so, a delicious one. At 15% alcohol even with ten grams of residual sugar behind, it would probably not -work- except for its relatively high, ripe acidity. Flowers, brown spices, citrus zest, and raw hazelnut in the nose go on to inform an almost shockingly exuberant and bright yet creamy-textured palate. Char and chalk in the finish lend a decisive note and perhaps a bit of unnecessary austerity. But when this already remarkable wine has enjoyed a couple of years in bottle I think it will amaze you, and certainly it should follow in a tradition of Pinot Blanc from this estate that is worth cellaring for 8-10 years. I think it highly unlikely, given this wine's freshness, and lack of any sign of betrayal, that its high alcohol will ever bring it down. Neumayer reports that a warm wind blew through the Traisental in the last days of September, after which he began picking on October 3; just over a month later, he was finished. I have been an enthusiastic proponent of the Sauvignon experiments of Neumayer and a number of Danubian growers, but it is impossible to overlook the fact that - in U.S. dollars, at least - excellent Sancerre can still be had for not much more than half the price of the Giess, and that with the Stein, we are in Dagueneau territory. Austrian Sauvignon outside of Styria may still count as an exotic, but if the wine is excellent, its price tends to be set with the high tariff that applies to single-vineyard Styrian Sauvignon in mind.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700