Deep garnet with a hint of brick, the 2003 The Governor Syrah gives a slightly musky, meaty / gamey nose with underlying hints of prunes, kirsch and licorice. Medium to full bodied, it gives just enough savory fruit in the mouth with medium-high acid and some chewy tannins, finishing long. It’s fading just a bit and needs drinking-up. During my visit to McLaren Vale, I tasted a small vertical of Aramis’ The Governor Syrah with the winery’s managing director, Lee Flourentzou. The Aramis vineyard is in Willunga, a relatively cool climate pocket just 1.5 miles from the ocean. The wines are now made by the highly skilled winemaker at Chapel Hill, Michael Fragos. Only 300-400 cases of the winery’s flagship, The Governor, are made every year.Importer: John Larchet, The Australian Premium Wine Collection; www.tapwc.com.au

Earthy, gamy flavors are more prominent than the cherry and tobacco fruit. Finishes with enough fruit to keep this honest. Drink now through 2012. 200 cases imported.??–HS??Region: Australia / McLaren Vale Select to Add

Smoky and bacony, with complex meat and spice elements balancing bold blackberry fruit. Long and tannic on the finish.——J.C.(6/1/2007)—— 91