Despite what many might think, 2012 was cooler in Monterrei than 2011. The 2012 Gorvia Blanco is a varietal Dona Blanca from a single plot of vineyards planted some 26 years ago. But it's distinctly riper than 2013 or 2014. The vineyard is on a slope close to the Monterrei Castle on slate soils and it's the warmest of all the vineyards worked by Quinta da Muradella. It fermented part in stainless steel and part in an oval oak foudre with some uncrushed grapes, where it matured for some nine months before being blended and given an additional year in stainless steel - before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. It's a balanced vintage, with riper aromas of yellow plums and plenty of pollen and beeswax aromas. I also tasted a bottle of the 2008, a cool vintage that proprietor Jose Luis Mateo had kept to follow up on the evolution of Dona Blanca; it is a grape that is thought to be neutral and destined for early-consumption wines. Not at all! At least in the able hands of Mateo and the mineral slate soils where the vines are planted. The nose is exuberant full of chamomile and pollen aromas beautifully perfumed. Despite being the warmest of all the vineyards, the wine is surprisingly fresh, with very tasty flavors and a supple, umami-driven finish. The acidity will become more integrated with time in bottle, as I've seen in the 2008. 2,600 bottles filled in August 2015.
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