The 2009 Syrah Jack Robert’s Run Gregori Vineyard is a gorgeous wine layered with blackberries, tar, graphite, incense, camphor and game. In 2009 winemaker Andy Smith waited out the rain and harvested in late October. He was rewarded with a huge, opulent wine that possesses stunning richness and intensity yet is not at all heavy. A mineral-drenched finish adds the last layer of complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This is a very strong set of wines from DuMOL and winemaker Andy Smith. Like so many producers, DuMOL is in the midst of a stylistic shift that began around 2005. Smith described some of the estate’s earlier wines as a bit too heavy. Today’s approach emphasizes picking a bit earlier than in the past and places greater emphasis on complexity, structure and acidity. At times, the malolactic fermentations are blocked. The Chardonnays are barrel fermented and aged in oak (50% new) with all of their lees, but there is no stirring of the lees. Tel. (925) 254-8922; www.dumol.com