The lean, austere, malnourished 1997 Hermitage is an uninspiring effort. Surprisingly, it does not display this vintage's lush, opulent, low acid, plump characteristics. This firm continues to evolve, with major investments in the cellar taking place. Readers should not assume that Vidal-Fleury represents the second label of its famous proprietor, Marcel Guigal. This house has a separate identity, and has been admirably managed by Jean-Pierre Rochias since Guigal acquired it in the mid-eighties. The release of Vidal-Fleury's wines is somewhat unusual, with some of the red wine cuvees held back for a number of years (i.e., the 1996 Cornas). Nevertheless, this is an undeniable source for top-notch values, particularly their southern Rhone reds from Cotes du Ventoux, Cotes du Rhone-Villages, Vacqueyras, and Cotes du Rhone. Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-WINE