Naoko Dalla Valle, after telling me last year she was not going to make a 2003 Maya, has culled out what is the equivalent of 170 cases of 2003 Maya (the normal blend of 55% Cabernet Franc and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon) that she may sell as Maya, although that question was still up in the air when I tasted it. I thought the wine was powerful, rich, with loads of tannin and grip, and in fact bigger and potentially longer-lived than the 2002, but not as charming. It is certainly a top-flight wine, but her impeccably high standards may ultimately cause her to think it is not superb enough for this luxury wine, which has been so spectacular since the early 1990s. (Not yet released)Tel. (707) 944-2676; Fax (707) 944-8411
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