Seriously crisp, this is a wine for acid freaks; don’t even think about serving it as an aperitif. However, with the right dish (think flavorful fish in a cream sauce), some real magic could happen. The austerity of the palate is softened a bit by easy-to-like flavors of toast, spice and citrus that follow through to the long finish. Give this one a few years in the cellar to show its best. ——J.R.(10/1/2010)—— 91