It’s a significant commitment of time, money and resources to cellar a sparkling wine for this long, and Ferrer is to be commended for going the extra mile. The wine rewards the years of producer patience with a soft richness that is both lush and creamy. The once-fresh bready scents have evolved into a toasty, nutty smoothness, and the flavors coat the palate and mellow through an extended finish. ——P.G.(12/15/2000)—— 90