One of the sexiest garagiste wines of St.-Emilion, the 2004 Croix de Labrie is lighter than usual without the flamboyant exoticism it normally possesses. Nevertheless, there is still plenty to like. Its dark ruby/plum color is accompanied by scents of mocha, scorched earth, jammy cherries, and licorice. Medium-bodied with good sweetness and purity as well as dry tannin in the finish, it should drink well for 7-8 years.