9 A gorgeous evocation of Pinot Noir. Pours pale in color and translucent, suggesting it’s not a heavy fruit bomb, and indeed it is not. Feels as light as a cloud, yet with intense flavors of red stone fruits, bacon and spices, and that feral, wild forest quality you get from the best Sonoma Coast Pinot Noirs. Bone dry, but so sweet in fruit and cedar, with wonderful acidity. Superb now, after decanting, and should develop over the next 6–8 years.——S.H.(12/31/2011)—— 95