Messmer Burrweiler Schlossgarten Im Goldenen Jost Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) Grosses Gewachs

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The Messmer 2008 Burrweiler Schlossgarten Weissburgunder Im Goldenen Jost Grosses Gewachs – which, incidentally, now comes in a huge, heavy bottle so deeply punted my hand almost disappeared into it, and which is presumably supposed to signify Grosses Gewachs – offers an aromatic overlay of lanolin and milk to its raw hazelnut, fennel pollen, and apple. Savory shellfish-like salinity akin to that of the 2007 version is allied to an oily-rich palate, with lemon oil and orange zest offering brightness and invigoration. Charred wood and chalk notes add depth, and the bitterness of peach kernel is well integrated into a soothingly rich yet minerally alive finish. It had been too long since I’d seen Gregor Messmer (although I am at his winery annually) and I was encouraged by witnessing him professing his rededication to his vineyards. That said, after a 2007 collection that was the best I had tasted here in a number of years, I found that some of these 2008s – which were harvested between the 18th and 30th of October – leaned rather sharply in the direction of leanness and Sauvignon greenness and shared with many of their fellow Pfalz trocken Rieslings an extremely tart brightness.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300