An Arlaud 2006 Chambolle-Musigny Les Chatelots (representing a single barrel and as such, says Cyprien Arlaud, not easy to raise) was implacably reduced on the sole occasion when we met, but the corresponding 2006 Chambolle-Musigny Les Sentiers – from immediately south of the estate's Morey Les Ruchots – was more accessible. Smoky black tea, kirsch, and pungent hints of sage lead to a lean, bright, invigorating palate, and the finish here is penetrating and persistent. This is lovely as far as it goes, but the wine wants for just a bit of richness and charm, at least at present. I would re-visit this as soon as possible, and would anticipate its being best drunk over the next half dozen years.
Cyprien Arlaud – for more about whose very much family domaine and its recent progress and expansion, consult my report in issue 170 – harvested from September 23 through October 3, ending up with around a quarter less production than in 2005, and wines on which he reports having held back comparatively on fermentative extraction. The relatively low pH levels enhanced stability, says Arlaud, and they certainly help account for the tart edges and vivacity of the fruit character in so many of his wines. Save for the large volume of Bourgogne (bottled in January, 2008), all of the Arlaud 2006s were bottled in December, 2007, and Cyprien Arlaud is hypothesizing in retrospect that perhaps this has temporarily stunted certain wines whose bottlings might better have been postponed. (Note, though, that the wines are neither pumped nor filtered here now.) This explains the number of plus signs and question marks I employed in an attempt to offer shorthand accounts of my reactions, in many cases to hints of reduction, tightness, or tannic perturbation.
A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93
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