The 2019 Muros Antigos Escolha is a blend of 40% Loureiro, 40% Avesso and 20% Alvarinho, unoaked and notably crisper and lighter than last year's (1.5 grams of residual sugar, 7.2 grams of total acidity) and 12% alcohol. Each of the grapes comes from the subregions most famous for them—Alvarinho from Mon??o e Melga?o, Loureiro from Lima and Avesso from Bai?o. This is where the lineup gets fruity as well as fresh. This is delicious, not merely well constructed. Yet the acidity beautifully lifts the fruit, so it always seems serious. It is long on the finish, a bit tense and chock-full of flavor. At this level in the lineup, I don't always expect brilliance, but this seems pretty fine right now. Perhaps, too, it is just more open that some of the bigger wines. Will it seem as good when the exuberant young fruit calms down? Maybe, maybe not. That said and considered, let's lean up on this given how well it shows now. If it slips a little as time goes on, so be it, but I'd bet it can age well. We'll be a bit conservative there, though, and take the drinking window in stages.
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