While Fry styles and utilizes his Cabernet Sauvignon in a way that reverses the roles familiar from Bordeaux, with his Merlot being the more structured wine, Lenz is nevertheless offering their 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Old Vines at the same late date as the corresponding Merlot. Aromas of cassis, huckleberry, and humus carry over onto a darkly-hued, faintly bitter, richly textured yet juicy palate underlain with toasted walnut, bittersweet herbs, iodine, and crushed stone. I would plan on enjoying this over the next 2-3 years. Micro-biologist Eric Fry reached New York from his native California 25 years ago on the recommendation of mentor Andre Tchelistcheff and has long ago become a Long Island veteran. He and owner Peter J. Carroll follow a release regimen that would give most winery proprietors headaches and heartburn not to mention red ink, with whites usually appearing a couple of years after harvest, while red wines and the estate’s wonderful sparkling wines are typically released after four or more years. Fry believes oxygen is a friend at the right time, and his reds often get “splashed” following what usually are very slow malos; are given extended time in barrel before racking to tank; and are bottled extremely late.Tel. (631) 364-8403