It's hard not to be moved by the extraordinary 2014 Etna Rosso Vigna Barbagalli. This wine is soaring in character and quality and is fast on its route to becoming one of the icons of vino Italiano. It's hard to know where to start. Many great Etna reds are Burgundian in character, but oddly, this wine appears more Bordelaise, especially in this excellent vintage. The wine is beautifully conditioned and fine, yet it is exuberant and fruit forward at the same time. It opens to delicate aromas of dried flowers, spice, wild berry and black currant. The tannins are extremely well managed and they appear silky and firm on the close. The wine has all the right qualities, from acidity to pristine primary fruit, to promise a long aging window.