Always an intricately built wine, exotic and ripe. Right now, it’s a contradiction. So silky in the mouth, it could almost be a Pinot Noir, except it has Cab’s tannins, and the blackberry and cherry fruit has a powerful intrusion of cassis. Those tannins are notable. They intrude at every step of the way, suggesting time in the cellar. Six years seems barely adequate, ten years more likely.——S.H.(11/1/2011)—— 93
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