From a vineyard made famous by Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer, the 2008 Chardonnay Upper Barn offers lemon zest, nectarine, honeyed brioche, citrus, and crushed rock-like characteristics in its full-bodied, beautifully textured, pure, dense, complex personality. It should drink well for a decade or more. These are far and away the most impressive group of Stonestreet Alexander Mountain estate wines I have ever tasted. Kudos to proprietor Jess Jackson and winemakers Graham Weerts and Marcia Monahan for exploiting this high elevation terroir. This has been a work-in-progress for Jackson, and he has finally hit paydirt with the following wines. Readers need to pay close attention as there are some amazing Chardonnays as well as red wines emerging from Stonestreet. There are seven distinctive cuvees of Chardonnay, ranging in production from 185 cases of Red Point, to 660 cases of Lower Rim. All of these super-impressive efforts come from elevations of 900 to 1,800 feet. I tasted one Merlot and seven Cabernet Sauvignons, and as readers can tell, these are also impressive wines. Production ranges from approximately 250 cases of the single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons (the only exception being the 5,000-case cuvee of Cabernet Sauvignon Monument Ridge).Tel. (800) 355-8008; Fax (707) 433-9469

A monster Chardonnay, massive yet balanced. Shows fantastically ripe pineapple, golden mango, lemon chiffon pie, buttered toast, creme brulee and cinnamon spice flavors, brightened with crisp, clean acidity. Almost a food group in itself. Reserve this for your boldest, most upscale fare, like lobster. ——S.H.(10/1/2010)—— 96