The 2006 Chardonnay Cold Creek Vineyard is sourced from a 32 year old vineyard, one of the first planted by the winery and ancient by Washington standards, with yields of less than 2 tons per acre. The wine was aged in 54% new oak and 50% was fermented with indigenous yeasts. Light gold in color, it reveals aromas of butterscotch, vanilla, apple, poached pear, and a hint of tropical fruits. Smooth-textured and nicely balanced, the wine’s finish is long and pure. Chateau Ste. Michelle, Washington’s largest winery, continues to demonstrate that being big is not incompatible with high quality. The latest set of releases may be the strongest to date. Tel. (425) 415-3300; www.ste-michelle.com

The Cold Creek Chardonnay is built upon 30-year-old vines, fully ripened at this warm site. Sensuous, soft and broadly laced with flavors of toasted nuts, brioche and apple pie, this luxurious Chardonnay still maintains a pleasing, focused structure that carries along flavors of lemon and apple, cut against the dominant oak. Cold Creek wines are among Washington’s most ageworthy.——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 90