Spices, toast, vanilla, and minerals are found in the complex aromatics of the 2004 Chardonnay Cold Creek Vineyard. This concentrated, fairly priced wine is extremely well-focused and will repay cellaring (or decanting). Nuts, minerals, and pears can be detected in its deep yet round character. Drink this outstanding medium-bodied Chardonnay between 2008 and 2013. Tel. (800) 267-6793; www.ste-michelle.com

Big, oaky and extremely bright, with refreshing acids and crisply defined fruit. As is usually the case with this spectacular vineyard, the flavors carry extra intensity; they seem to drill down into the heart of the palate. Though released young, this is a wine that could certainly benefit from another 6–12 months in the bottle. ——P.G.(6/1/2006)—— 90