The 2008 Torre Albeniz Reserva has a beautiful, floral bouquet with immense purity: cassis, dark cherries, a touch of vanilla and graphite. The palate is full-bodied with firm tannins encasing broody, almost saturnine black fruit. It is nicely balanced but quite austere toward the dry finish. This is a great wine, but would only show well on the dinner table. Drink 2013-2020+. Cyclo was the wine that encouraged Ricardo venture toward organic winemaking and it comes from a 92-year-old vineyard that has around 40% missing vines.
The hawks were watching when I visited Bodegas Torremilanos. The birds of prey are part of the ecosystem that dovetails into their biodynamic viticulture, keeping pests away without resorting to pesticides and so forth. The family purchased the property in 1975, when wine was worth a pittance, so much so that the father of present winemaker Ricardo Penalba had to pretend that he was buying the land to turn it into a quarry! The vineyards have been expanded over the years so that there are presently 119 hectares under vine. This is an address where new ideas are being put into practice apropos unorthodox grape varieties and vinification techniques, including experimenting with concrete eggs and natural wine. “How do you know unless you try?” is the maxim at Finca Torremilanos. How refreshing to hear that. While they were not necessarily the best wines I tasted during my trip, I admire someone willing to take risks and experiment, just as I encouraged in my introduction. The result is an interesting portfolio that is worth seeking out and following. I spent an afternoon with Ricardo tasting through his portfolio from Ribera del Duero. Since I had the time, I agreed to taste his Cava and VDT wines that comes under the Penalba Lopez label, but will include them here for convenience sake.
Importer: Grapes of Spain. www.grapesofspain.com
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