Maybe an ambitious attempt gone awry, with the bouquet an ungainly grape-alcohol mix. The ripe grapey elements and brisk acidity hold it together—but barely—against earthy, vaguely musty notes. Finishes with intriguing spice and chalk notes, but also more hot vapors—almost like a much lighter grappa. Unusual and interesting, but lacks balance. ——M.M.(2/1/2002)—— 84