Salted lime, apple, buddleia, lemon blossom, and narcissus scent the Gies-Duppel 2008 Riesling trocken Buntsandstein, which comes to the palate lithe, bright, and invigorating in its tartness and pungency, finishing with impressive length; although don’t search here for richness over its next 3-5 years of likely active life. Gies says this was significantly more aromatic at an earlier stage in its evolution. For more about Volker Gies’s promising career and estate, consult my coverage in issue 185. His 2008s – which typically received around 6 hours on their skins in the press – were bottled already in March (and indeed, several were sold out by September). Gies indicated that it rained in his part of the Sudliche Weinstrasse for the better part of a week beginning October 27, so that he was glad to have finished picking shortly before that, but as at neighboring Wehrheim, I found this collection of wines on the whole slightly austere when compared with last year’s.Importer: Tartaglione Fine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 216-3356