The Naturalis Historia is a single-vineyard Taurasi/Piedirosso blend aged in small French oak barrels for 18 months. The 2000 is a big, plump, fruit-driven wine with pretty notes of dark fruit, leather and smoke. It offers outstanding density and length even if it isn’t the most complex wine out there. The presence of early tertiary notes suggests it won’t be terribly long-lived, but it should drink well for another decade. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Mastroberardino is one of the most famous properties in Campania. The estate’s legendary Taurasi Riservas of the 1960s set an early benchmark for quality in the region. Amazingly, those early wines are still in great shape. Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661