Figeac has a superlative terroir, but the high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc planted in the vineyards seems to guarantee frightful inconsistency. When it is great (1982 and 1990), this is one of the most compelling wines made in Bordeaux, offering the texture of a sumptuous Pomerol, yet the aromatic complexity of Cabernet-based Medoc. The 1994's medium dark ruby color is followed by a green pepper, olive, and blackcurrant-scented nose. The herbaceousness may develop a more cedary character with 3-4 years of cellaring. Although too tannic, the wine is medium-bodied, with ripe, sweet fruit, good purity, and a mid-weight feel in the mouth. Readers who have a fondness for austere wines will be more enchanted with this offering than I was. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2010.
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