The 2005 Collio Tocai Friulano reveals peaches, honey and smoke in a mineral-driven, focused style with outstanding concentration as well as length. Initially somewhat reticent, this expressive wine requires some air for the varietal notes to come forth. Drink this pure, clean Tocai over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2010. Proprietor Nicola Manferrari makes some of the region’s most elegant wines at his small estate in the Collio. Manferrari is part of the movement that sought to improve quality in the region by focusing on high-quality vineyard practices beginning in the early 1980s. He and his contemporaries wanted to make riper wines, which also required a shift away from the prevailing Schiopetto-influenced school of thought and a look towards Burgundy rather than Germany as a source of inspiration. In the cellar Manferrari is quite content to let the wines express the qualities of the vintage, so there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to malolactic fermentations for his whites, among other topics, although all the wines are aged in French oak. This is a beautiful set of wines from Nicola Manferrari and Borgo del Tiglio.Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644