The Lenz 2000 Cuvee represents a blend of tank-fermented Pinot with 30% Chardonnay that went through malolactic in old barrels. It was disgorged after eight years, then released six months later. “I’m getting the feeling,” says Fry, “that a wine like this needs more time in bottle after disgorgement.” Toast, iodine, and pit fruits in the nose lead to a lush, leesy, finely-effervescent palate. Fry finishes this bone dry, noting “I’m almost pathologically afraid of sugar,” yet thanks to the ripeness of fruit and low acid, there is a subtle and lovely sense of sweetness here that mingles with lees and salt in the finish. Micro-biologist Eric Fry reached New York from his native California 25 years ago on the recommendation of mentor Andre Tchelistcheff and has long ago become a Long Island veteran. He and owner Peter J. Carroll follow a release regimen that would give most winery proprietors headaches and heartburn not to mention red ink, with whites usually appearing a couple of years after harvest, while red wines and the estate’s wonderful sparkling wines are typically released after four or more years. Fry believes oxygen is a friend at the right time, and his reds often get “splashed” following what usually are very slow malos; are given extended time in barrel before racking to tank; and are bottled extremely late.Tel. (631) 364-8403
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