Knoll’s 2005 Riesling Smaragd Schutt displays wonderfully deep aromas of iodine, sea salt, crushed stone along with citrus oils and flowers. On the palate this is clearer and more buoyant, yet also richer and possessed of sweeter ripe fruit character (backed by around five grams of residual sugar) than the Loibenberg. Blood orange and pit fruits predominate on the palate. Inner-mouth florality and pointed, peppery minerality add dynamic interest. The clear, refined, and evocative finish is honeyed in its richness, subtly tinged with brown spice and mysterious, faintly sizzling minerality. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($22.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Pfaffenberg Kabinett (not available; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700
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