The most ambitious wine in Saint Martin’s line-up, their 2006 Coteaux du Languedoc Gres de Montpellier strikes me in some respects as the least successful. The exposure to barrel that principally distinguishes it from their Gres de Montpellier bottling reflects fine grain and subtle toasting, but there is a faint dryness that accompanies the finish of this wine redolent of ripe red raspberry, brown spice, marjoram, and cedar. Smoky, gamey nuances add further complexity to what might be a wine that will benefit from a couple of years bottle evolution.Winemaker Jean-Claude Zabalia – with whom I unfortunately did not have time to meet on my recent visit to the Languedoc, and whose 2007 reds I have thus not yet tasted – continues to render outstanding values across the board at this large property.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524
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