Gies-Duppel Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Spatburgunder Trocken

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While Gies-Duppel’s 2008 Pinot Noirs were somewhat disappointing, from barrel their 2009 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Spatburgunder trocken displays healthy, ripe cherry with smoky, pungently green herbal (sage, marjoram) and invigoratingly saline accents. A resinous woody note slightly intrudes on the flow of primary sap in the finish, but might well integrate after bottling. Lest I am too pressed to re-taste this later, I commend it to readers’ attention now as well worth reassessing and likely to keep well for at least a few years. Incidentally, Gies is moving from 225-liter barriques to 300-liter capacity barrels in an effort to reduce exposure to wood. Volker Gies – for more about whose vineyards and methods consult my coverage in issue 185 –continues to display impressive talent and is happily receiving increasing recognition inside Germany. Hopefully wider U.S. distribution of this estate’s wines will follow. Like other of the best 2009 vintage Rieslings from Gies’s corner of the southern Pfalz, his harbor highly efficacious acidity and high energy of a sort that can by no means be taken for granted – not even on the Mosel! – in this vintage (and indeed, is almost entirely absent in the Rieslings from further south in Alsace). I have been quite keen on Gies’s Pinot Blancs, but found them (as well as his Pinot Gris) – despite ample ripeness – marginally disappointing from 2009, a circumstance familiar from this vintage in neighboring Alsace.Importer: Tartaglione Fine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 216-3356