The 2016 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is one of the greatest young white Burgundies I have tasted. Unfurling in the glass with notes of lemon oil, white flowers, pastry cream and wet stones, the wine is full-bodied, powerful and immensely layered, with a bottomless core, searing concentration and a sense of completeness and harmony that transcends the limits of what one thought possible. The extent of this Chevalier's sheer energy and structural tension are hard to describe because they fall so far outside the norms of contemporary Burgundy.