Lots of lovely autumnal tones of forest floor and beetroot open the bouquet of the 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella. Most of the fruit (Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and other red grapes) is sourced from a single vineyard planted to 20- and 35-year-old vines in prime production. The grapes are appassite for up to five months and the completed wine is gently aged 36 months in oak. I love the earthy intensity of this wine, its bright garnet color, energy and soft texture. Drink 2015-2025.
Antonio Fattori is one of the most talented white winemakers in the Veneto. Although he also makes Valpolicella reds, his white Soave expressions are the true standouts. I remember visiting him at his super sleek and impossibly tidy winery a few years back. He led me to a tiny plot of land just across the street and pointed to the soil. It was the most amazing color with deep amber-yellow hues and bright veins of red. Just one hill over, I had seen dark soils with dusty shadings of dark grey and black. The volcanic geology of the Soave region is fascinating and the variability is mesmerizing. The red soils of the aptly named Terrossa di Ronca subzone produce ethereal and elegant white wines that are powerfully distinguished by their chiseled mineral notes. Fattori’s wines embrace this quality perfectly.
Importers: T-Edward Wines, www.tedwardwines.com; Vanguard Wines, www.vanguardwines.com; J & J Importers, www.jjimporters.com; Terra Vino Inc., www.terravinopartners.com; The Wine Co., www.thewinecompany.net
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