What balance! This wine’s considerable sweetness is admirably buffered by ample acidity, while low alcohol adds to the impression of lightness and ease. This structural balance is complemented by the way slaty-minerally aromas play off bright tangerine and peach flavors, ending seamlessly, crisp and long. Delicious now, but should easily age 20 years. ——J.C.(9/1/2006)—— 94
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