The top-shelf red is the 2008 Etna Rosso Aetneus that pays homage to this mighty Sicilian volcano with fruit from pre-phylloxera, 150-year-old vines. I tasted this same vintage last year and assigned the wine a score with a question mark because the bouquet appeared muted and muddled. Whatever problem I encountered last year happily did not reappear during this tasting. This is a strong and physical wine with sharp aromas of wild berry, forest floor, wild mushroom and sweet violets. It shows distinct mineral linearity that reinforces the wine's overall elegance and immediacy. The fruit used here is mostly Nerello Mascalese and there are smaller percentages of Nerello Cappuccio and Alicante (or Grenache).