With the 2005 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese A.P. #10 we cross into Beerenauslese territory, and this wine registers considerably more viscosity, creaminess, and sense of extract than its predecessors, yet at the same time evinces a razor’s edge of citricity that cuts through its rich layers of purple plum preserve, fresh as well as caramelized apple, and wet stones. Virtually all of this lot – which is clearly a candidate for three decade’s of cellaring – was sold to Switzerland. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling ($16.00; 85+?).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463

The 2005 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese A.P. #9 – an auction lot – smells of white peach, pineapple, pink grapefruit, and fig, saturates the palate with a load of those same fruits, then finishes with startling clarity, brightness, and honeyed richness. Almost indescribably intense concentrate though this is, one nevertheless glimpses subtle inflections of flowers, spice, and mineral throughout. This really needs time to calm down, but should be another three decade keeper. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling ($16.00; 85+?).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463

The 2005 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese A.P. #11, smells of Normandy apple cider, kirsch, and flowers. The palate impression is wafting and delicate despite the wine’s near-Beerenauslese must weight, and the long, clear finish is marked by subtle alternations of spiced apple, white raisin, apple skin, and wet stone. This is a model of how concentration and elegance can go hand in hand. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling ($16.00; 85+?).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463