The brilliant 1995 Sauvignon possesses an intensely aromatic, honeyed melon-scented nose with hints of pineapple. In the mouth, it is one of the greatest expressions of the naked Sauvignon Blanc fruit (no oak is utilized) I have ever tasted, with brilliant delineation, medium body, layers of crisp, vibrant fruit, and a dry, astonishingly long finish. This is a tour de force for this style of Sauvignon. It will be remarkably flexible with an assortment of culinary dishes.Mario Schiopetto is considered to be one of the great Italian white wine makers. Long-time readers know my opinion on most Italian whites - boring, innocuous, sterile wines with no character or charm. That being said, there is evidence of some improvement. The three wines reviewed in this segment struck me as among the best tank-fermented and aged dry whites I have ever tasted from Italy. Moreover, the Sauvignon is splendid. I suspect all three offerings will last for 4-5 years, but my palate prefers white wines fresh and lively, so I would opt for drinking them over the next 12-24 months.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
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