The 2009 Roero Riserva Giovanni Almondo bursts onto the palate with a heady melange of black cherries, French oak, licorice, smoke and incense, all of which come to life in a sumptuous style that is immensely appealing. This is very much a big, powerful style of Roero, but it works beautifully. At the same time, I can only wonder how much more expressive the 2009 could have been with a little less overt oak influence. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Year after year, Almondo is one of the very finest producers in Roero, a part of Piedmont where consistency is hard to come by. This is a fabulous set of wines from top to bottom. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644