The NV Extra-Dry Blanc de Noir Vignes Beaugneux is bigger, richer and creamier than the Grande Cuvee but lacks a touch of that wine’s verve and aromatic complexity. This, too, is 100% Pinot Noir (from Polisy) vinified in steel but here the dosage is higher, at 15 grams per liter. No disgorgement date provided. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Moutard is a small, family-run estate located in Buxeuil, in the Cote des Bar, that traces its lineage back to the 17th century. These wines are loaded with character and personality, and are all recommended.A Thomas Calder Selection, imported by Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, Potomac Selections, Landover, MD; tel. (301) 583-8844, Triage Wines, Inc., Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 883-0543, Vineyard Road, Framingham, MA; tel. (781) 789-1662