Salt-tinged, lightly-cooked mulberry inform the dense yet generously fruited palate of Mugneret 2007 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Vignes Rondes, but there is more evident tanninity and less primary juiciness here than in the other wines of the collection. This earns marks for sheer persistence, but it is outclassed in the current company and I would plan on drinking it over the next 2-3 years rather than waiting in anticipation of tannins melting.
The cool concentration and acid preservation of 2008 as a vintage would seem to mirror the finely-chiseled, fresh-fruited, modest alcohol style one associates with the Mugneret sisters, but the striking and surprising thing about their collection of that vintage is its youthful richness and textural allure. (The low-pH 2008s finished at only 12-12.5% alcohol.) As Marie-Christine Mugneret points out, they dropped crop to promote ripeness and drying and as a result were optimally positioned to take advantage of the September turn in the weather … optimally, that is, except in terms of yields! Most lots did not finish malo for a full year, and I tasted the wines in February at various stages (as noted) between barrel and bottle. “The sorting we did in early September in the vineyards in 2006 all had to be done on the sorting table in 2007,” remarks Marie-Andree Mugneret, explaining that ripening was too rapid in the latter vintage – in which they began picking September 1 – to permit such a triage at the vine. Despite the relatively swift malos and ripe fruit of 2007, bottling extended all the way until July of last year (for the Chaignots), but the Mugnerets share my view that the wines should for the most part be enjoyed relatively young in the flush of their fruit.
A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93
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