The Koehler-Rupprecht 2008 Kallstadter Annaberg Chardonnay Spatlese trocken – which was still in cask when I tasted it – represents a legacy of former owner and Sekt specialist Walter Henninger’s often striking cuvees from the Burgundian grapes as well as Riesling. Scented with almond, apple blossom, and buddleia; overtly chalky and brightly citric; it at the same time brims with juicy ripe white peach and apple. Iodine, charred wood, and apple pit lend piquancy to a refreshing finish. Along with Hans-Gunter Schwarz’s most recent release (see under “Villa Niederberger”) and the Knipsers’ Chardonnay – Pinot Blanc blend (also reviewed in this report), this Annaberg about as interesting and alluring as Chardonnay in Germany has ever gotten in my experience, and I long to re-taste it in bottle – perhaps even to serve it from a brown bag a few times! I wouldn’t be surprised if it proved quite versatile for half a dozen or more years. For comments on the recent sale of this estate (the most important of which is Bernd Philippi’s insistence that “nothing will change”) and on other developments here, see my report in issue 185. The choice of Pradikat-designation (or of “Reserve” status) for his many dry Rieslings from the large Saumagen site, explains Philippi, was once again this year – as in many others – based on an assessment of phenolic ripeness (clues: are the grapes greener or deeper gold; how big and how numerous are they?) and ultimately on style, concentration, and perceived aging potential, rather than on must weight, since sugar levels in the grapes were relatively uniform. Philippi acquired the major vineyard holdings of his friend Walter Henninger – notably in the chalky Annaberg – after that estate was recently dissolved, so while he had been farming these parcels and making the wines for many years under Henninger’s label, beginning in 2008 they became Koehler Rupprecht wines.A new U.S. importer had not yet been selected as of press time.
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