From old vines in three micro-climatically distinct spots, Fournier’s 2005 Marsannay Trois Terres Vieilles Vignes suggests a black cherry and red raspberry melange, with smoky, meaty, and ocean breeze overtones. The material in these largely higher-altitude parcels ripened at lower sugar than most of this year’s material, no doubt contributory to the wine’s displaying a bright, lean, buoyant personality despite formidable density of raw material. The overall effect is relatively spare in texture, with no superficial sweetness (and no sign of its 100% new wood) but a strikingly and highly satisfyingly long, salty, brightly raspberry-fruited and subtly meaty finish.
Young Laurent Fournier has been quietly elevating the quality of his family’s wines and joining the ranks of young growers (notably Philippe Collotte, Sylvain Pataille, and Philippe Roty) who – along with veteran Bruno Clair – are re-defining the potential of Marsannay and in the process offering some excellent Pinot values. As an illustration of the handicap under which the image and practice of vinifying Marsannay still labors, as well as of our changing climatic times, the I.N.A.O. gave Fournier trouble because his simple village Marsannay weighed in at a legally unrecognizably high level above 13.5% natural alcohol! In any event, says Fournier, he succeeded in sloughing off alcohol this year just by having done so many of his fermentations with whole clusters (which release their sugar over time). Malos only finally finished for Fournier in December, but most of the wines were assembled and about to be bottled when I visited him at the end of February.
Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne La Chapitre (Chenove) ($15.00;85), 2005 Marsannay Cuvee St.-Urbain ($22.00;85-86).
A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29. Also a Cellar Door Selection, Columbia, MD; tel. (410) 309-6063
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