The 2004 Pinot Noir “Emery” has a lovely perfume of pain grille, cherry, and black raspberry. Plush on the palate, it has better depth and enough structure for several years of evolution. Over the past 15 years Willakenzie Estate (named for the soil type on which the winery sits) has been a consistently excellent source for Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and particularly, Pinot Noir. The quality has been solid and the prices have been fair. Tel. (503) 662-3280; www.willakenzie.com. Also tasted: 2006 Pinot Gris (88), 2006 Pinot Blanc (89)

It is forward and textural, almost spritzy, with a lively mouthfeel and flavors of cola, tomato leaf and herb. More old Oregon in style, it is nonetheless concentrated and balanced, albeit brawny and rough around the edges. Lots of flavor for those who like their Pinot to take a little walk on the wild side.——P.G.(11/15/2007)—— 89