A fruity, balanced red from an ever-reliable producer. Firm red plum and cherry fruit has grip on the palate; it’s medium-bodied, with oak and nut flavors, and ginger-nut accents on the nose. It’s noticeably more sophisticated—less sweetness, less vanilla, more heft—than most Shiraz-Cabs in the under-$10 category.——D.T.(11/15/2003)—— 88