This wine is still relatively young, but with extended aeration, the whiff of toasty new oak dissipates nicely to reveal a wine displaying lots of coffee, tobacco leaf, chocolate, and black cherry and currant fruit. A spicy 1990 that is medium to full-bodied, with some still-noticeable tannin, the sweetness of the fruit, the lofty glycerin level, and the plush, beautifully textured style make this wine already appealing, but it is capable of evolving for at least another decade or more. Release price: ($450.00/case)

The 1990 Chateau Gazin is another fully mature wine from this Pomerol estate that stands as a testament to the quality of its terroir, though it is not without fault. Initially the bouquet is fruitier and purer than the 1989, but after 20 or 30 minutes it seems to run out of steam and turn a little acetic. The palate is well balanced with iodine and dark cherries on the entry, borrowing some of the cloves from the previous vintage with a satisfying fleshy finish. It continues to drink well after 26 years, although I feel that the 1989 is made of stronger stuff. It's a great Gazin that might well be just two or three years past its prime; therefore, larger formats excepting, pop the cork today—not tomorrow. Tasted January 2016.