Chapoutier's 1990 St.-Joseph-Deschants is made from one of the best vineyards of that sprawling appellation. It exhibits a Cote Rotie-ish nose of bacon fat, black olives, raspberries, and minerals. In the mouth, there is excellent richness, medium to full body, crisp acidity, and a long, supple, fleshy finish. Drink it over the next 4-6 years. It has shown considerable improvement since I tasted it last year.
The young Michel Chapoutier continues his quest of cultivating his vineyards in an organic fashion, and turning out wines that reflect the soil, the grape, and the vintage. These concentrated (because of low yields) wines are made with minimal intervention by the winemaker.
Importer: Paterno Imports, Chicago, IL.
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